Lost in the Jungle: The Caracol Mayan Ruins of Belize

The Starlit Path

9 months ago

Arriving in San Pedro, Belize

Belize is one of the world’s most underrated gems. It’s got it all—the ancient Mayan ruins of Caracol, the legendary Blue Hole, the laid-back charm of San Pedro Island, and so much more.

I went to Belize during a cold November in Austin

Your journey begins at Philip Goldson International Airport, the main gateway before you hop on smaller planes to reach the country’s stunning islands.

Here are a few highlights of the trip:

Landed in Belize City – Philip Goldson International Airport. First stop on the map. Warm, humid air wrapped around me like a welcome hug. From the airport, we flew about an hour inland toward the jungle.
Clarissa Falls Resort, San Ignacio – Rolled into our base camp beside the Mopan River. Clarissa Falls Resort has thatched cabanas, sweeping jungle views, and is surrounded by the Maya Forest. It’s one of the largest remaining tropical forests in the Americas — second only to the Amazon in size.

The helicopter to get to Clarissa Falls Resort

Clarissa Falls Resort is nestled in the lush Mopan River valley enveloped by the broader Maya Forest—a sprawling tropical rainforest spanning Belize and parts of Guatemala and Mexico

My bedroom had this outdoor bathtub!

Evenings at the resort

The Caracol Ruins – At sunrise, we set off for a three-hour trek by road through the twisting, wild Chiquibol Forest (say it: “chee-kee-bol”). The payoff? The ancient Mayan city of Caracol — 600 BC, older than the pyramids, once home to around 150,000 people. Excavations still carve away the jungle to reveal its secrets.
At its peak, Caracol was actually bigger than Belize City is today — covering nearly 200 square kilometers and dominating the entire region.

Welcome sign at Caracol Mayan Ruins

Caracol defeated the mighty city of Tikal (in present-day Guatemala) in 562 AD, capturing its king and carving the victory into stone monuments

What Caracol would have looked like in its prime…

In ritual chambers, these platforms were usually altars or spaces for ceremonial offerings

Caracol is surrounded by pristine jungle, and wildlife sightings (howler monkeys, toucans, even jaguars) are common

Cave Diving at Aktun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) – After the ruins, we plunged into adventure. Drove 45 minutes, hiked the jungle trail, then swam the Cave Branch River to reach Aktun Tunichil Muknal.
The most haunting sight? The Crystal Maiden — the skeleton of an 18- to 20-year-old Maya woman sacrificed over 1,000 years ago. Over time, her bones have been coated in glittering calcite, so under our headlamps she shimmered in the darkness, frozen forever in her final resting place.

Aktun Tunichil Muknal (ATM), also known as the Cave of the Stone Tomb, is one of Belize’s most famous and haunting archaeological sites

Pulling up, it looked like it was about to rain

Mayans believed these caves were portals to Xibalba, the Maya underworld. Inside were pottery shards, ritual offerings, and human remains left untouched for centuries

Belize is riddled with caves — hundreds of them — and at least 298 are registered ceremonial sites

The Crystal Maiden — the skeleton of an 18- to 20-year-old Maya woman sacrificed over 1,000 years ago

Selfie in the jungle!

Back to Belize City – Left the jungle behind. The ocean was calling.
San Pedro, Ambergris Caye – Boarded a “frog hopper” — a tiny prop plane that skips between islands — and fifteen minutes later, I was stepping onto the sand in San Pedro. Checked into Victoria House, where white sand meets turquoise water. Peak season: November–December. Price tag: $600 a night. Worth every cent.

Ready to get on the frog hopper

Our plane to San Pedro

The Belize Barrier Reef — the second-largest in the world — runs almost the entire length of Belize’s coastline

Ambergris Caye islands as we head towards San Pedro

The Blue Hole – One hour by helicopter over the open sea to Lighthouse Reef. And then — there it was. A massive, perfect circle of deep blue. Haunting. Beautiful. We circled for thirty minutes, and I couldn’t look away.

The Great Blue Hole

The Great Blue Hole is estimated to be around 14,000 years old

Victoria House San Pedro

Exploring San Pedro Town – One afternoon, I hopped in a taxi on my own and headed into town. Snapped a photo at the colorful San Pedro sign, wandered along the streets, and watched fishermen haul in their catch — glistening barracuda, snapper, and who-knows-what-else. Then headed back to the resort with sand still clinging to my shoes.
Wild Last Night at Secret Beach – On our final evening, we hopped on a boat and zipped up the coast to Secret Beach, north-west of San Pedro. This stretch of lively bars seems to float over the shallow turquoise waters, each one buzzing with music and laughter. Here we met the infamous Viper Shot — rum steeped with a preserved snake, served with sugar, pineapple, and a flame-tipped finger for good measure. One last toast to Belize’s wild side before heading home for a traditional Mayan dinner.

Secret Beach

Traditional Mayan Dinner

A traditional Mayan dinner is usually hearty, corn-based, and built around ingredients the Maya have cultivated for thousands of years — often cooked over an open fire or in underground pits.